Saturday 27 December 2014

C&G level 2 Module 4 Chapter 4 completed

Chapter 4 Resists

Masking tape resist

Using black cartridge paper as a base with torn masking tape in shapes on the paper, Markel sticks were used on the tape and with different old toothbrushes for each colour, the oil stick colours were brushed off onto the cartridge paper and softened and blended. The oil stick colours were left to dry and then the page brushed with acrylic wax to seal the piece.


Page 40. Masking tape resist


Sticky plastic and self-adhesive paper resist

Self-adhesive resists were made from the peacock/dragon motifs. They didn't stick very well so I used fingers to hold them down as Brusho paints were sponged onto the calico base.


Page 41. Sticky plastic resist


Sticky shape resists

Several commercial shapes were stuck to a piece of calico; torn masking tape, reinforcement rings, circles, rectangles and letters were used and then painted over with fabric paint colours.


Page 41. Commercial sticky resists

Paper was painted with transfer paints and resists added; torn tape, stars, circles and reinforcement rings, were stuck to the calico fabric base. The image was ironed to the fabric, the resists removed and the transfer paint ironed again to produce layers. 


Page 43. The transfer painted paper with one resist in place


Page 43. The resulting fabric 

The transfer painted paper was used again onto watercolour paper with hears and star resists and embellished with some sticky backed lace. This was a little bit twee, but it works. 

Stencil resists

A kitchen sink mat was used as a resist as a stencil over calico and spray bottles made up containing Brusho and Walnut ink. The mat was moved after each spraying and created a sort of tartan effect. After each spraying, the residue on the stencil was placed on paper and and different pattern made. Two different cloth and paper samples were made. 


Page 44. 1st fabric sample


Page 44. 2nd fabric sample


Paper pattern from stencil


2nd paper sample with fly swat addition!

Paper doily as a resist

A gold coloured doily was used - the gold finish seemed to act a a good barrier to absorption of the paint. Brush paints was used from the small spray bottles onto calico.


Page 45. Paper doily resist

Torn paper resist

Torn paper was used as a resist on calico and black paint sprayed over. Fingers were used to stop the paper being blown around. 


Page 45. Torn paper resist

Masking tape resist

Masking tape was torn and stuck at angles across a piece of calico. Walnut ink was sprayed over the piece and place on top of a radiator to dry before removing the tape. The edges of the radiator created the darker lines, which were accidental but look good. 


Page 45. Masking tape resist

Wax resists

In my cupboards was a wax heat-pan which I had not used, so my first practice with it was to use the outline of the peacock/dragon to work out which size of xjanting to use. The big blobs were when I didn't know how to control the wax flow. I changed to the smallest holed xjanting and became more proficient, so wrote my name and made some squiggles. The piece was then sprayed with a metallic spray. The fabric (calico) was ironed on newspaper to remove the wax and then washed in very hot water and ironed again. The metallic spray whilst having been ironed on, was not fast, so some washed out.


Page 46. Wax resist - some of the newsprint has also transferred

Wax and card resist

For Christmas I had received a set of hand creams which were held in a heavy cardboard support in a box. Using the support as a stencil, the negative shapes were painted with fabric paint. Once dried, the background calico was squiggled and dotted with hot wax which was allowed to dry. Once solidified, orange Kemtex fabric paint was sprayed over the whole piece and again allowed to dry. 

The piece was then ironed over newspaper and the wax dissolved, then the piece was washed and ironed again.



Page 46. Wax and card resists

Tie dye as a resist

A piece of calico was rolled into a tight cylinder and tied with tight string in four places. Red and green Brusho paints were used to colour the fabric which was dried and then folded and clamped. The edges were dipped into another green and the piece dried whilst clamped. Once dried it was unfolded and ironed flat.


Page 47. The tie-dye piece


The reverse

The stencilled sample

I made stencils large and small of egg shapes and using Indian rough paper as a base, sprayed Semtex paints through the shapes; they were overlaid to create different shapes and shades. Some colourist metallic paints were also used but they seem to have faded into the paper. 

The layers were built up wet-in-wet to allow them to merge and soften into each other.



Before stitching


Page 48. Some stitching was applied to emphasise shapes


Bleached tissue

I didn't have any other discharge liquid than Milton nappy solution which is in fact bleach so decided to see how it would work on a range of papers. 

Block prints from the course were used with the bleach on the first few samples. Some more successful than others.




Page 49. Duck's feet on blue tissue


Page 49. Oyster-catcher on mauve tissue


Page 49. Block from previous module on black cartridge paper


Page 49. Macintosh rose block from previous module on black tissue with sheen




Page 50. Peacock/dragon, rose and Christmas cracker decoration as blocks


Page 50. Lots of blocks on green tissue. 

The green tissue seemed to take the blocks better than the former samples.

Sponged bleach on tissue.

Several piece of tissue were sponged with bleach - 



Page 51. On lime green sparkly tissue


Page 52. On purple tissue


Page 51. On orange tissue


Page 51. On pink tissue


Page 52. On dark blue tissue


This chapter is now completed


Tuesday 23 December 2014

C&G Machine embroidery Chapter 3 completed

Dissolveables

I collected all the water soluble items that I had and bought paper and fabric to complete. I am usually happy to work without a hoop and support the work with my hands. I made the small sample pieces on what I think was Romeo and made a square grid, a circled grid, a cobweb, some fee shapes and some patterns that didn't turn out too well.














Not all my water-solubles were labeled - they are now.

Automatic stitch


Page 34. Two lines of automatic stitch on fabric and two on water-soluble using film.


Page 34. Overlapping automatic pattern using film


Page 34. Links lines of automatic pattern using film

Some small areas didn't work too well as I had not made good links with the stitching.

Designed edge

A basic grid was stitched, then overstitched with a circular automatic pattern and overstitched again with an automatic leaf pattern. This was made using film. I did sketch another design but didn't use it


Page 34. Designed edge

I'm pleased with this design and think that it could be further developed as a cuff or a bracelet.

A further piece was developed using interlinked diagonals, overstitched with granite stitch with some more intensified granite stitch blobs.


Page 35. Zigzag and granite stitch edge using film.


Fringe with automatic pattern

On the left of the fabric I had though to use this pattern and then realised that it may not hold well together so needed a different pattern to link. I used the circle pattern that had worked so well on the 'cuff' and alternated the circles with straight rows of fringing. Using film, this washed away well leaving a useful fringe.



A grid was then stitched and covered with straight automatic pattern and diagonals - this is well supported with the film when washed away


Page 35. Straight and diagonal using film

Grid using automatic pattern and film.

An irregular straight stitched grid was made on film with blobs added at junctions to add support. Diagonals were also added for interest and then using a heavy metallic thread and the circular pattern that had worked well before a diagonal area was created - I like this piece, thick and thin, dark and light and contrasting shapes


Page 35. Grid using straight and automatic stitching 

I used the de Morgan 'peacock/dragon' as the motif for the next piece and drew three shapes with biro on water-soluble film using the back of my print block as a guide, using Avalon film.

A grid was created in heavy metallic straight stitch and then overstitched with zigzag to hold the grid firmly. The outlines of the peacocks were also stitched around their outline to define the areas that were to be more densely stitched. 

The three peacocks/dragons were stitched in red, orange and green and a small eye defined in each. They were all granite stitched. The film was dissolved and the piece held together well. There were a couple of places where I missed the edge of the shapes but I have left this uncorrected as it will remind me that the shapes need to be very carefully observed when stitching. 


Page 36. Grid using blocked design

Feathers

Using water soluble film, five feathers were free embroidered. The piece was pinned to polystyrene and the film washed away then the feathers dried before removing. They held they shapes well and are rather nice and delicate. I chose pastel shades to describe their airiness. 


Feathers stitched and pinned


Page 37 Feathers after film dissolved

Water soluble paper and film used together

The peacock/dragons were block printed with acrylic paint onto water soluble paper and when the paint had dried, a grid was stitched over the piece and some details of the peacocks stitched and linked between the images. 




Piece stitched and pinned to polystyrene

The paper was washed away and the piece dried. Some of the paint washed away; some of the paper didn't! I painted over the peacocks with clear nail varnish when dry. 



A second block printed piece was made, this time in reverse and on film. The motifs were painted with metallic acrylic paint and the backs with clear nail varnish. A grid was stitched and the piece pinned out. The film was washed away and dried and then the new piece stitched to the first grid - they were both washed again, but the paper still hasn't all gone. 

On reflection, I did use two sheets of paper to add support, this may have been the problem or the fact that the stitches were too small and didn't allow the paper to dissolve. If I did this agin, I would use one sheet of paper and larger stitches. 


Page 37. The double grid


The reverse showing the undissolved paper after several attempts and picking!

Water soluble film and snippets

I used sticky water soluble and removed the backing, then added lots of bits of wool. silk rods, silk sari waste and having stitched a grid over the embedded fibres, washed both of the support materials away, leaving a little residue to maintain some stiffness. I think that is lovely and will make another sample using threads that I keep from previous projects, but I will make the grid less square


Page 38. Snippets using film


Reverse.

I used a water soluble fabric as a base and top layer and sandwiched snippets of thread, net, silk rods and bits of cord and stitched a circular grid to embed the fibres. The water-soluble fabric was then washed away leaving a very pleasing 'fabric'


Page 39. Snippets with water-soluble fabric

A very enjoyable chapter with generally good outcomes.